手機(jī)版
Dutch student Walinka van Tol inspects the worm protruding from a half-eaten chocolate praline she's holding, steels herself with a shrug, then pops it into her mouth.
"Tasty ... kind of nutty!" the 20-year-old assures her companions clutching an array of creepy crawly pastries at a seminar, which forecast that larvae and locusts will invade Western menus as the price of steak and chops skyrocket.
Van Tol and about 200 other tasters were guinea pigs for a group of Dutch scientists doing groundbreaking research into insects replacing animal meat as a healthier, more environmentally friendly source of protein.
"There will come a day when a Big Mac costs 120 euros ($163) and a Bug Mac 12 euros, when more people will eat insects than other meat," head researcher Arnold van Huis told a disbelieving audience at Wageningen University in the central Netherlands.
"The best way to start is to try it once," the entomologist insisted.
At break time, there is a sprint for the snack tables with a spread of Thai marinated grasshopper spring rolls, buffalo worm chocolate gnache, and a seemingly innocent pastry "just like a quiche lorraine, but with meal worms instead of bacon or ham", according to chef Henk van Gurp.
The snacks disappear quickly to the delight of the chef and organizers. But the university's head of entomology Marcel Dicke knows that changing Westerners' mindset will take more than disguising a worm in chocolate.
"The problem is here," he says, pointing at his head while examining an exhibition featuring a handful of the world's more than 1,200 edible insect species including worms, gnats, wasps, termites and beetles.
Three species: meal worms, buffalo worms and grasshoppers, are cultivated by three farmers in the Netherlands for a small but growing group of adventurous foodies.
"People think it is something dirty. It generates a Fear Factor response," citing the reality series that tests competitors' toughness by feeding them live insects.
Dicke said Westerners had no choice but to shed their bug bias, with the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization predicting there will be nine billion people on the planet by 2050 and agricultural land already under pressure.
"We have to eat less meat or find an alternative," said Dicke, who claims to sit down to a family meal of insects on a regular basis.
Bugs are high in protein, low in fat and efficient to cultivate -- 10 kilograms (22 pounds) of feed yields six to eight kilograms of insect meat compared to one kilogram of beef, states the university's research.
Insects are abundant, produce less greenhouse gas and manure, and do not transfer any diseases, when eaten, that can mutate into a dangerous human form, say the researchers.
"The question really should be: 'Why do we NOT eat insects?" said Dicke, citing research that the average person unwittingly eats about 500 grams of bug particles a year anyway -- in strawberry jam, bread and other processed foods.
According to Van Huis, about 500 types of insects are eaten in Mexico, 250 in Africa and 180 in China and other parts of Asia -- mostly they are a delicacy.
One avid European convert is Marian Peters, secretary of the Dutch insect breeders association, Venik, who likes to snack on grasshoppers and refers to them as "the caviar of insects."
On a visit to an insect farm in Deurne in the south east Netherlands, she greedily peels the wings and legs off a freeze dried locust and crunches down with gusto.
"They are delicious stir fried with good oil, garlic and red pepper and served in a taco," said Peters.
The owner of the farm, Roland van de Ven, produces 1,200kg of meal worms a week of which "one or two percent" for human consumption, the rest as animal feed.
"When you see an insect, it is a barrier. I think people will come around if the insects are processed and not visible in food," he explains while running his fingers through a plastic tray teeming with worms -- one of hundreds stacked ceiling-high in refrigerated breeding rooms.
"It is harder to eat a pig you have seen on a spit than a store-bought steak. This is similar."
The farmer said human demand for his "mini-livestock" was growing slowly -- from 300 kilograms in 2008 to 900 kilograms last year.
For those who won't be swayed, there is hope for less grizzly alternative. Wageningen University is leading research into the viability of extracting insect protein for use in food products.
"We want to determine if we can texturize it to resemble meat, like they do with soy," said Peters, clutching a bag of pinkish powder -- protein taken from meal worms she hopes will one day be a common pizza ingredient.
參考譯文：
荷蘭學(xué)生 Walinka van Tol 觀察著她手中咬了一半的巧克力果仁糖中伸出的蟲(chóng)子，聳了聳肩，然后堅(jiān)定地把它送入口中。
“好吃……有點(diǎn)堅(jiān)果味！”這個(gè)20歲的女孩在一次研討會(huì)上說(shuō)服她的同伴握緊一系列令人毛骨悚然的糕點(diǎn)，還說(shuō)這預(yù)示著幼蟲(chóng)和蝗蟲(chóng)將會(huì)入侵西方菜單，價(jià)格竄升堪比牛排和豬排。
Van Tol 和大約 200 位食客成為了一組荷蘭科學(xué)家的小白鼠，進(jìn)行一項(xiàng)創(chuàng)新研究，試圖讓昆蟲(chóng)取代動(dòng)物肉類，成為一種更健康、更環(huán)保的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源。
“將來(lái)有一天會(huì)出現(xiàn)售價(jià) 120 歐元（163 美元）的巨無(wú)霸和 12 歐元的蟲(chóng)無(wú)霸，到時(shí)候人們吃昆蟲(chóng)比其他肉類更多，”首席研究員 Arnold van Huis 在荷蘭中部的瓦赫寧根大學(xué)告訴一群對(duì)此不相信的聽(tīng)眾。
“最好的開(kāi)始方式就是嘗試一下，”這位昆蟲(chóng)學(xué)家堅(jiān)持道。
Henk van Gurp 廚師表示，他們?cè)谠绮蜁r(shí)段小吃表單上列出過(guò)一小段時(shí)間的泰式腌制蚱蜢春卷、buffalo worm 夾心巧克力，以及看上去沒(méi)什么問(wèn)題的糕點(diǎn)“就像是洛林糕，但取代培根或火腿的是面粉蟲(chóng)”。
令廚師和組織者高興的是，這些小吃很快售空。但該大學(xué)昆蟲(chóng)學(xué)的領(lǐng)軍人物 Marcel Dicke 明白，要改變西方人的觀念，把蟲(chóng)子偽裝在巧克力中是遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不夠的。
“問(wèn)題在于這兒，”他邊說(shuō)，邊指向一邊展覽著的全世界超過(guò) 1200 種可食用昆蟲(chóng)，其中包括蠕蟲(chóng)、蠓蟲(chóng)、黃蜂、白蟻和甲蟲(chóng)。
荷蘭有三位農(nóng)場(chǎng)主養(yǎng)殖面粉蟲(chóng)、buffalo worms 和蚱蜢，提供給數(shù)量小但不斷增長(zhǎng)的愛(ài)冒險(xiǎn)的美食家們。
“人們覺(jué)得這是骯臟的東西。這形成了一種害怕因素反應(yīng)，”引自測(cè)試挑戰(zhàn)者對(duì)食用活蟲(chóng)的忍耐力的紀(jì)實(shí)類系列節(jié)目。
Dicke 說(shuō)西方人別無(wú)選擇，必須擺脫他們的蟲(chóng)子偏見(jiàn)，因?yàn)槁?lián)合國(guó)糧食及農(nóng)業(yè)組織預(yù)計(jì)到 2050 年地球上將有九十億人口，而農(nóng)業(yè)用地早已壓力重重。
“我們不得不少吃肉，或者尋找一種替代品，”Dicke 說(shuō)，他呼吁可經(jīng)常在家庭主食中嘗試些昆蟲(chóng)類。
蟲(chóng)子蛋白質(zhì)含量高，脂肪含量少，培育效率高——該大學(xué)的研究表明，10 千克（22 磅）飼料可以喂養(yǎng)六至八千克的昆蟲(chóng)肉，而只能喂養(yǎng)一千克的牛肉。
研究人員稱，昆蟲(chóng)數(shù)量充足，產(chǎn)生很少的溫室氣體和糞便，而且不會(huì)傳播任何疾�。ㄊ橙雽�(dǎo)致危險(xiǎn)的人類構(gòu)成突變）。
“真正的問(wèn)題應(yīng)該是：‘為什么我們不吃昆蟲(chóng)呢？’”Dicke 說(shuō)，他引用了某項(xiàng)研究，稱無(wú)論如何一般人每年都會(huì)無(wú)意識(shí)地吃下大約 500 克的蟲(chóng)子顆粒——在草莓果醬、面包和其他加工食品中。
Van Huis 表示，在墨西哥，大約 500 種昆蟲(chóng)被人食用，非洲有 250 種，中國(guó)和亞洲其他地區(qū) 180 種——幾乎全是佳肴。
Marian Peters 是一位狂熱的歐洲食蟲(chóng)者，她是荷蘭 Venik 昆蟲(chóng)飼養(yǎng)者協(xié)會(huì)的秘書(shū)，喜歡拿蚱蜢當(dāng)點(diǎn)心，稱其為“昆蟲(chóng)魚(yú)子醬”。
在她參觀荷蘭東南部德?tīng)栐G的一家昆蟲(chóng)農(nóng)場(chǎng)時(shí)，她貪婪地剝下一只凍干的蝗蟲(chóng)的翅膀和腿，然后興奮地吞下了肚。
“它們用提純油、大蒜和紅辣椒混合爆炒，再裹在墨西哥煎玉米卷里真是美味極了，”Peters 說(shuō)。
這家農(nóng)場(chǎng)的主人 Roland van de Ven 每周生產(chǎn)1200kg膳食蠕蟲(chóng)，其中1~2%供人類食用，剩下的作為動(dòng)物飼料。
“當(dāng)你看到一只昆蟲(chóng)時(shí)，就形成了障礙。我認(rèn)為如果昆蟲(chóng)經(jīng)過(guò)處理，在食物中看不出來(lái)的話，人們就比較容易接受了，”他邊解釋，邊將手指穿過(guò)一張布滿了蟲(chóng)子的塑料托盤(pán)——這是冷藏飼養(yǎng)室中堆得天花板那么高的上百個(gè)托盤(pán)中的一個(gè)。
“你很難看到插在烤串上的一頭豬后想吃它，卻能很輕易地吃下現(xiàn)成的牛排。這是類似的道理。”
這位農(nóng)場(chǎng)主說(shuō)，人們對(duì)他的“迷你家畜”的需求正緩慢上升——從 2008 年的 300千克到去年的 900千克。
對(duì)那些不會(huì)動(dòng)心的人們而言，這里有一種不那么灰暗的選擇。瓦赫寧根大學(xué)正在引領(lǐng)一項(xiàng)有關(guān)提取昆蟲(chóng)蛋白質(zhì)用于食品制造的可行性的研究。
“我們想要確認(rèn)是否可以修改其結(jié)構(gòu)，變得和肉類相似，就像別人拿大豆做的那樣，”Peters 邊說(shuō)邊抓著一袋粉紅色粉末——從面粉蟲(chóng)中獲取的蛋白質(zhì)，她希望這將有朝一日成為普通的匹薩配料。
